Sunday, October 21, 2007

A belated Eid Mubarak


Ramadan is Khalas (finished).



It's long overdue for me to get down my thoughts on Ramadan and how it went. I managed to fast for every single day during Ramadan without respite and I'm clearly proud of that, although I must say that sleeping til 4pm on weekends made some of the easiest fasting days ever! (Particularly when compared to some of my more religious friends that got up and prayed during prayer times while I snoozed, feel bad about that one, hehe)

So reflecting on whether I hit my goals for Ramadan and what I learnt, here is what Ramadan is about for me:

- Ramadan is about supporting each other, asking about each other's health and fasting process. It's about a community that shifts as one, to a new schedule, a new outlook on life, a new thought process.

- Ramadan is about thinking about the poor and the needy, remembering how they feel not being able to eat during the day, not having ready access to water. Although we drive expensive cars, have huge dinners after sundown with food they can only dream of, maintain our luxurious lifestyles and all the other contradictions, somehow Ramadan at least gives us that window of opportunity from sun-up to sun-down, to remember those people every time our stomach growls or our parched throat hurts.

- Ramadan is about being able to adjust your earthly lifestyle to something different, more important, more spiritual, more conscientious. The spiritual aspect is about sharing with other people, discussions on how things work and the importance of things. It's about conversations with yourself and what you hold as important, what your philosophical outlook on life is, etc.

- Ramadan is about big communal futoors (meal to break the fast at sundown) and ghabges (big buffet at around 11, as a second meal, usually with lashings of rice and fish).

- Ramadan is about keeping your ear finely tuned to that iftar call from the mosque and about keeping the Ramadan calendar on your desktop so you know exactly how much longer you have to fast today and how much longer you have to eat and drink until the first call to prayer.

- Ramadan is about that suhoor with a friend, fuul and hummous and conversations about life at 2-3am (Thanks to Simi, my suhoor buddy for fuul, shisha, life and anything in between :))

- Ramadan is about burgers and shawarmas when you need to a quick feed, omlettes (which you can smell cooking but cannot taste) when you wanna conserve cash and eat at home, big grocery shops with housemates when you're salivating in Jazira supermarket at all of the options

- Ramadan is about the best home-made meals ever at your friend's houses, or when they bring food for you, Bahraini food, Sudanese food, Egyptian food, Bedouin food, any kind of damn food you can get your hands on as long as it's dutifully prepared by a friend, friend's mother, friend's maid, etc. (Thank you so much to Slais, Hamdi, Ali Shaikh and Mariam Kamal for making sure I was well fed and not lonely at iftar).

- Ramadan is about the best smokes and glasses of juice ever, the first smoke and glass of juice after your first meal, thinking about contentedness and the night ahead and the last smoke and glass of juice on our wondrous balcony, gazing out over the street, thinking about ramadan, life, sleep and everything else... 

- Ramadan is about conversations with your Chinese friend/roommate/intern about Arab culture and life. (Thanks Dingkun!)

- Ramadan is about sleep-working through your day, trying to motivate yourself to get something done while you are tempted by random chats and scrabulous, and sharing that with someone who knows all too well what it's like (Thanks Saba!), while you are tempted by random conversations that flicker and flow from the nothing to the something, but all totally meaningful

- Ramadan is about sharing an office with someone who has experienced the ups + downs of Ramadan for many many years and is part of the very culture you speak of, observing their habits and learning to understand them and to respect them. (Thanks Sahar!)

- Ramadan is about answering questions "Why are you fasting?", "Are you converting to Islam?", "What's Ramadan really like?" and all the questions about Islam and Arab culture that stem from that. Too many people to mention here but I'm sure y'all know who you are, particularly anyone who I said "Read my blog!" to... sorry about that, should've come up with a more personalised reply :P

- Ramadan is about a schedule... about filling yourself to the brim with futoor (not healthy, i Know) but looking forward to that first coffee (best coffee ever) at your favourite places (thanks Veranda, Costa (Adliya + Juffair) and Cinnzeo... and all their staff!) and that conversation you've been needing so badly, about seeing someone's smile on webcam and it making your day.

- Ramadan is about late night msn and google talk chats, whiling away the time towards the end of suhoor, something about those late night chats has a special feeling about them, even if they are totally random or hardcore philosophical/political... not ur regular online chat (Thanks to Fatima, Annika, Sara, Saaim, Dalia, Shahira and anyone I forgot... sorry!)

- Ramadan is about reading the ramadan blog on nomadlife and being happy whenever there's a posting so you can share and understand other people's thoughts on the Holy month from whatever background or country they come from/are in (too bad it was not very active this year, gotta lift it for next year guys!)

- Most importantly, Ramadan is about connecting with an incredible culture, a rich history, a psyche, a religion, a global community and a lifestyle that are so finely intertwined it is difficult to separate them almost any of the time. I can't pretend I've gone anywhere close to really understanding Arabs, Islam or the Middle Eastern region properly but I can definitely say Ramadan has helped me a great deal to make headway.

Peace out y'all, will post about my trip to Jordan soon.

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Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Balconies and the Moon

If there is one prominent symbol of Ramadan it is the crescent moon. Although it is a symbol of Islam itself, the crescent moons are really all over the place during Ramadan. Following on from the last post about sitting on my balcony at suhoor, I've come to realise that I've been looking at the moon a lot since the beginning of Ramadan. I look at it every night and I am able to really notice the way it changes.... as it waxes and wanes or whatever you call it.

Which led me to realise that this is the first time in my life since I was very young that I actually am living in a place with a balcony. Balconies rock. Here are some photos from mine.

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Sunday, September 16, 2007

Suhoor and the First Call to Prayer

One of my favourite parts of Ramadan is the first call to prayer. The morning call is when you are meant to stop eating, drinking and smoking and start fasting. At the moment it happens at around 4am or a little bit later. It will be getting later and later as the month wears on...

My apartment has two balconies facing the street and they are generally good places to chill. One of my favourite parts of the night is to eat something light for suhoor (the last meal) and to go out onto the balcony right before the first call. At this time, the street is pretty quiet, only the occasional car, definitely no traffic so when it's time for the first call, I can hear 3 different calls to prayer from 3 different mosques simultaneously.

The result is really amazing as the calls to prayer emanate from seemingly everywhere around my little balcony. To call it 'atmospheric' doesn't even begin to describe it. For those of us that aren't muslims, that aren't used to something so innately spiritual being around us every day of our lives, it really feels like something different. It puts my mind in a different state, a relaxed but contemplative state. There's something about it that makes me feel at peace with the world, and I love it.

Just one of the things that I love so much about this part of the world.

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Friday, September 14, 2007

Ramadan Day 1

So a few people have been asking me the reasons behind my decision to fast this Ramadan and basically there are a lot of reasons:

- I'm in the Gulf, in a very Muslim part of the world. Ramadan here isn't just a decision to not do certain things during certain hours of the day, it's an absolute way of life. The entire country adjusts itself completely. Working hours are shifted, all restaurants/cafes are closed during the day and then open far later. It's illegal to smoke, drink or eat in public. Life revolves around different meal times like iftar and suhoor, it's all that people talk about, decorations are different around the city, Coke has special Ramadan cans, the list goes on... It makes sense to be an active part of this way of life rather than having to work around it by sneaking cigarrettes in the toilet or going home to make lunch from stocked up foodstuffs.

- One of my main goals for coming here was to understand the mentality of the people and to understand the "culture", which is not just eating cool food and wearing fancy clothes, but to really understand why people do things here the way they do them.

- It is a good opportunity to get in touch with a different side of my spirituality, ask myself different questions about who I am, what I believe, what I need from life and what keeps me going day to day.

- It is a good opportunity to take myself to a different limit, challenge myself in a different way.

- The concept behind putting yourself in the shoes of someone who does not eat more than one meal a day, does not have ready access to water or the luxuries of smoking and loud car stereos (a hell of a lot of people in this world) is definitely an interesting concept. From what I understand, this is one of the main concepts behind Ramadan and it certainly makes sense to me.

- But I have to admit, a big lure is the feeling that you're part of a community. Ramadan brings the community together. People ask about each other's health, habits and wellbeing more during this period. People support each other, they take their meals communally and they reflect together. In that sense, it is a wonderful time.

So Day 1.
Apart from the fact that I had to work 12 hours today - starting at 8.30am to clean up the office a bit, had a meeting with a French Embassy representative, had a long planning session with the MC team, did some Exchange-related emailing and spreadsheet research, had a meeting with Tima & Aseeri, half-attended an Exchange team meeting and finally culminating with a meeting with one of our Board members which went til 8pm.

I ended up breaking my fast at Iftar over a can of Coke and a cigarette before the last meeting... and eventually consumed a nice Turkey sandwich at O'Briens. Not bad for my first iftar I guess...

Following this I chilled out at home for a while and then a bunch of us went to La Maison du Cafe to smoke shisha, have the second meal (the name of which I forget) and listen to some nice Ramadan tunes (very soft songs sung by a guy playing an Arabian guitar thingy).

Following this we went back to the apartment to chill out and watched Becker, Seinfeld, Frasier and Friends - a good flash back to 90s sitcoms which were some of the best sitcoms in my opinion.

Then Simi and I went to Beirouti for some Lebanese food for our suhoor (last meal).

Now am lying in my bed at home contemplating my first day of my first real Ramadan and thinking that it was pretty damn good. :)

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