During my last weekend in Jordan, Saba, Momo, Oks and I went on a road trip to the south. Unfortunately, I didn't take many photos during this time but it was a really cool trip so I thought I'd put up my thoughts on the places we visited and the time we had.
First stop was Aqaba, we drove there at night and arrived at something like 3am. Aqaba is a port and resort city in the southern most part of Jordan, on the Saudi border. It allows Jordan strategic access to the Gulf of Aqaba and the many trade and tourism opportunities that come with it. The place is pretty much full of Egyptians (thanks to its proximity to the Sinai) and also has quite a lot of holiday makers from Saudi, other parts of Jordan and other parts of the Middle East.

After we arrived we headed straight for Burger King to use their bathroom facilities, despite the fact that they were actually closed, they were friendly enough to let us in and use their facilities. Unlike the neighbouring "Chicken and Buscuits" restaurant which obviously employed a group of assholes who refused to let us in, what the hell kind of a combination is "Chicken and Biscuits" anyway. Well we got them back by sitting around looking menacing in their outdoor seating area afterwards.
After that we went to downtown Aqaba and enjoyed some much needed nourishment in the form of fuul and ta'miyah. We headed for the beach straight after, even though it was still dark and around 4-5am, and the plan was to either chill all night and not sleep or sleep on the beach (either on matrasses or in the car). This plan was foiled by the fact that we were all very tried, grumpy and the sun brought out the heat and the flies. After an unsuccessful attempt at sleepin gon my part (it was more successful for Saba who managed not only to sleep but also to sleeptalk amusing inanities), we resolved to actually check in to a hotel room to get a few hours of proper sleep. The above picture is actually a view from said hotel room. Momo negotiated the price and the hotel guy seemed a little peeved that it actually ended up being for a group of foreigners who he had to charge local rates, ha.
After the badly needed sleep intermission, followed by a frustrating disagreement with the hotel shower (a key reason for our decision to check in there in the first palce) which was only trickling water, we went to Momo's family's house for "lunch". Lunch was as fantastic, as I have now come to expect from Arabic home cooking, and major props go to Momo's mum and dad who were really very cool.
Following this we headed back to the beach, had a bit of a splash around, I made an unsuccessful attempt at snorkeling which I had never done before, and couldnt really do because water kept seeping into my face gear (damn).
After all this we headed for Wadi Rum. Wadi Rum is a valley cut into the desert, sandstone and granite rock in the southwest of Jordan. It is a popular tourist destination and many camps have sprung up on the outskirts of the valley, along with Bedouins who ferry tourists directly into the middle of it to allow for cool experiences camping out in the desert. This latter experience is what we were in fact going for.
Unfortunately, this plan was foiled by our late departure from Aqaba and an absolutely horrific bus accident that waylayed us along the highway for a good half hour or more. This accident, I have never seen something like it. There were people covered in blood, screaming and crying, there were dead bodies lying on the road. We arrived probably around 5 minute after the accident actually occurred so the ambulances had not gotten there yet. Momo and I spent some time going around passing people water and trying to be useful, although there wasn't much that we could really do. After the ambulances arrived, we helped some people inside and the dead bodies were covered in body bags and taken away. After it was obvious that the emergency services more or less had control of the situation, given that we were pretty much more in the way than helping, and the fact that the remnants of the bus could explode at any time, we decided to try to go around the accident via a dirt road and head for Wadi Rum.
I think one thing I learned from the experience is the ever-present realisation that human life is so unbelievably fragile. To think that people can be on a bus heading to see loved ones, for business, for a holiday, one minute and then be dead the next, lying on the road amidst twisted metal and body parts. It really makes you think about how much a human life is worth in this world, and why people don't take more precautons that could really save so many lives.
We did this successfully but we were too late to catch the Bedouins going out into the desert, and ended up having to settle for one of the aforementioned camps. After viewing a few camps and arguing a little bit about which camp to settle for, we decided to settle on one.

The Egyptian-run camp was quite nice actually, despite the heavy presence of European tourists, and the Egyptian guys there were nice enough to fix us a meal (the obligatory fuul, ta'miyah and labneh) and some shisha despite the fact that we were certainly late for both.
It was completely dark by then, as they had switched off all the lights and most of the inhabitants went to sleep, so it was nice to just be alone with the food, shisha and starry starry sky. The next morning, we hung out at the camp for a bit, had breakfast and headed back to Amman in time to drop the rental car off at the appropriate time.
Big thanks go out to my travelling companions who had to bear with me during a time when my mood was not the best. All in all, it was certainly an eventful and fun trip.
The most interesting parts were:
- The many stops for bleary-eyed roadside coffee and amusing desert urination
- The singalongs in the car to our favourite Arabic tunes and bickering over which song to play, and not to play
- The opportunities to drive through the desert, the scenic King's Highway and the Jordanian villages we came across
- The splash around at the extremely rocky Aqaba beach, the sand (dirt?) of which I was silly enough to walk on bare foot, no thanks to Momo, an dodge many cigarrette butts, rocks and bits of glass.
- The camping at Wadi Rum with the good food, good shisha and solitude.
- The unscheduled stop at Petra to enquire about conference facilities
- The harrowing accident, I realise its bad taste to describe it as 'interesting' but it really was a shell-shocking experience. Up until this point, I don't think I'd ever seen a dead body, and certainly not one lying like a rag doll on the road covered in blood with bits of skull showing. My heart and thoughts go out to the families of those that died and to those that survived the crash. It was in the paper the next day, 7 dead, such a shame.
I will probably do a brief wrap up post about Jordan after this, I'm so slow. It's been 3 weeks since I finished my trip and I'm still going on it!
Labels: jordan, philosophy, travel