Thursday, November 22, 2007

Muharraq

Sitting in my car waiting for shawarma and labneh. Muharraq, another bastion of conseratism in 'liberal' Bahrain. See the cars go past. How many men driving with naqabi (totally covered except for the eyes) wives in the back? Their oblivion to everything but their family, their household. An upright Arab in a suit and a droptop BMW roadster. Indians in old cars. Uniformed expatriates, police? Protecting what? Car horns go off. A dumpster with arabic graffiti, and a love heart.

Yes, there is love here, somewhere. A kid in an AC Milan soccer jersey, Kaka's name emblazoned on the back, coke bottle glasses, ferries garbage to the dumpster. Oasis sings "Dont look back in anger, I heard you say". Veiled women in expensive cars, traffic does a carefully choreographed dance through the narrow street. An Indian man rides past on his bike, balancing juice cups on his handle bars. I wonder how many hours he works a day to support his family that is so far away? I wonder when is the last time he saw them?

Too late for wondering. The food is here.

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